consider switching to btrfs which has subvolumes (think partitions as folders, no need to predefine their size) and you’ll never have to deal with this again. also compression and deduping (all those duplicate games dlls and whatnot take up space only once)
what you describe would be an ardous journey… if the mentioned macbooks cost like $500. or $1000. truly, that sorta thing is nothing short of masochistic and no sane person should bother with that.
you’re making broad statements based on very shitty hardware - 4 gig dual-core laptop isn’t a very representative experience when you can get solid workstations for pocket change.
the macbooks I get are in the $20 region and for that kinda “money” I get absolute top-notch quality hardware, that, although dated, is more than adequate for the vast majority of uses. spending a coupla minutes to tweak it post-install isn’t a huge price to pay.
here’s my headless 2014 MBP (i7-4770HQ with 16 GB, Intel Iris) doing its thing. was sold “for parts” due to busted screen for $25 ($40 asking).
so, yeah, dicking around with broadcom’s stack is a thing, but it’s a thing that you do once and then it just works. I’m as bleeding edge as reasonably possible (F43) on all models I run and I haven’t got any issues, akmod builds the driver on every kernel install, which if you’re doing actual work on the thing isn’t something you’re doing often.
as to how to install without LAN, you use your Android phone and tether its Wifi via USB. after five minutes (full system upgrade, install broadcom-wl via rpmfusion for e.g. Fedora) you’re done. or, use the netinstall thing the same way. there’s also a buncha stuff needed to make the experience better (undervolt, LID0 wake events, etc)
not sure about Airs but MBP 2015 models (possibly 2013/14 as well) can be retrofitted with a $5 adapter board that lets you fit a regular Intel M.2 NGFF in there, eliminating the tainted kernel issue.
all my hardware is recycled trash, so I ain’t got experience with those modern 12th gens, but what worked (and phenomenally so) for my old heaps is implementing suspend-then-hibernate, a feature that’s off by default and you gotta put in some leg work to make it work, especially on fedora due to zram.
this works reliably on every platform I tried - sandybridge macbooks, coffeelake and ryzen zen plus thinkpads, etc. regardless of UEFI sleep support. you leave it in standby and if you don’t touch for, say, an hour, it dumps the RAM to SSD and turns off all power - zero battery drain! when you “wake” it, it restores RAM from the SSD and gives you your lock screen login and this is faster than cold boot and all your shit is how you left it!
once it works, it works like a mac - you leave your laptop for hours, days, weeks and comes back up how you left it, with the battery barely losing a percentage point.
those are still connected via USB internally most of the times, type lsusb and if it’s there, same thing applies.
if your BT is connected via USB (lsusb), there’s a buncha kernel switches that prevent it from suspending. since it’s a stationary device that’s often not needed, so disabling USB and BT autosuspend goes a long way to make them things behave.
I mean, just imagine you’re spitting game at cutie at the bar and things are cooking and you go “hit me up on hkmbljurgh” and all of a sudden fire and brimstone all around kthulu cthulhu appears wondering why you summoned him them you scream sorry bro wrong number bro kthulu goes its aight but he they missed a dentist’s appointment because of this the barkeep is now pissed who’s gonna clean this up cutie is nowhere to be found…
shoulda gone with signal is what I’m saying
thank you! I am also one of the dozens of people who can read, what are the odds we come across one another on lemmy of all places, huh?
while I have you here, would you say that giving unpronounceable welsh names to new entrants attempting to challenge established players with a decade+ strong foothold in this space is a) a prudent decision or b) hella stupid?
we got issues switching normies to signal which has been around forever, how’s tongue-breaker gonna make any progress?
my old guy is on the case:
that’s 2011 tech, works like it came off the line yesterday. here’s to many more versions!
I’m gonna hate on the thing. had high hopes from all the rave reviews so my disappointment was commensurate.
you missed to state your config, and Imma assume it’s a high-end system. how do I know? because I ran it on weak hardware and it was molasses slow. Ryzen 4650u, 16 GB DDR4, 500 GB NVMe and whatever graphics it has integrated, some rando controller, connected to a 40" 4K display, let’s see what the hubbub is all about…
the install process, forgetaboutit. can’t believe they piggy-backed off of the broken-est installer out there, fedora’s calamares. dog help you if you need anything but the vanilla-est install, as any changes to partitions result in unrecoverable install errors. as I understand it, there’s a whole-ass fedora install that isn’t needed for anything but to run the installer - hence the hefty size, about twice that of a regular install ISO.
once installed, what everyone and their uncle forgot to mention during the rave reviews (and you kinda glossed over) is that a steam account is fucking mandatory. like, you can’t even log in, switch to desktop mode, change resolution, nada. if you just want local-only games - get bent, you hafta go through us to access shit on your own computer! not only does this rub me the wrong way, I got no such spy/adware on any of my other devices.
I got no windows with the mandatory online account, no Google TV with the mandatory online account, ditched Plex because it won’t run with no internet, got no Android with a Google account… why would I make an exception in this case? what, gabe the yacht owner is “our people”? he isn’t and I won’t.
it’s highly impractical for everyday use (will it behave without internet?), not to mention - it’s fucking superfluous. I got no games on there, no intention or way of getting them from there and I give a total of zero fucks about the chit-chat rooms and achievements and other crap presented therein.
handling “alternatively” acquired games is a fucking chore. switch to desktop mode, do the thing there, then manually add and tweak them in steam’s UI and add missing graphics and stuff and switch back and forth until it’s all in order - you best believe the switch isn’t instantaneous. it’s not really a huge deal as you don’t do that multiple times per day (or even daily), but I don’t see why this couldn’t have been a controller-only-interface activity.
speaking of desktop mode, this was my first contact with the immutable, atomic, cloudnative, whatchamacallit concept and for me, this thing blows elephant fucking dick. it is so slow, cumbersome, inefficient… if you thought regular dnf and flatpak installs and upgrades are slow, installing anything here takes fuckin eons. and the constant restart prompts for this and that, dios mio!
finally, everything feels sooo slow and clunky. I get that my puny hardware can’t handle modern titles, but browsing the UI and interacting with the system shouldn’t be even close to a demanding task.
so mad props to the team who made this happen, I get how this is an impressive engineering feat to weld all them things together in a sorta cohesive way, but I feel some of the things I mentioned shoulda been way more prominently featured before us clueless folk decide to switch to it.
got this thing almost free so I’m taking my time. can’t afford to call a repairdude so I’m looking into learning how to fix it. had success with a previous find, replaced a coupla caps for backlight and got an awesome TV for less than $2.
so step 1, look for obviously busted caps and burned out shit and this post is to that end. if that fails, I’m on to step 2, determine if this can be repaired at all; like, if it’s the panel, give up right there. maybe learn something for the next one. and on and on.
fuse OK. turns on, backlight works, image has lines all over and after a while (30 sec when left overnight off power, 10-15 secs when left a couple hours) it starts fading the image to black with the backlight still on. inspected visually all components, this is the only one that looks suspicious.
added top view in OP, all the other components that looked charred got cleaned up with a brush, this is the only one which looked damaged. currently waiting for the TV to empty all the capacitors before I attempt to remove the board.
thank you! isn’t CRT, it’s a LED TV power supply.
TV power supply. added top view in OP, a buncha surrounding components were dirty as well but a brush cleaned them up. this is the only one that seems burned. at this point I’m just looking for obviously busted stuff.
no, I mean the drive is encrypted and I don’t gotta bother with shred.
I’ve recently upgraded my hard drives used for storage. and because I ain’t made of money, I wanted to sell the old drives. shredding those things took ages (4 TB drives). lesson learned, new drives are btrfs + LUKS that gets unlocked via key file. so when the time comes to sell those, I won’t bother with shredding, just sell them as is.
anyone tried Catapult? what state is it in?
that’s a… mature, measured, and well thought-out reply. good job!
I mean this is certainly something somebody wrote, but the content is a joke.
first off, it’s from the 80s, so it might as well be from the 1800s, that’s how much it has to do with our everyday lives. second, it’s rife and overflowing with prepper-adjacent gas and fantasies. the writer’s style is lacking, to be overly generous and the whole thing gives off vibes from the days or alt.* newsgroups. finally, the “advice” in there is laughably naive and sometimes just plain wrong.
so thanks OP, had a few laughs browsing it but this got deleted almost instantly.
have the data drive (movies, backups, etc) get decrypted with a keyfile from the system SSD. you’re safe to lose, throw away, sell your data drive and don’t have to bother with shredding the data. this takes hours for drives of any significant size.